AT 6 -- Hugh Davis

Sat, March 28, 2009

Dear Friends:

I am sitting in a motel room in Gatlinburg, TN waiting for a storm to roll in. I last wrote from Franklin NC. At that point I had walked 107.7 miles on the AT. I came off the trail yesterday afternoon at New Found Gap in the Great Smoky National Park, 204.7 Miles on the trail. I am slowly making my way up the east coast. Only have 1975 miles to go.

I have had a mental improvement. The hills are still just as high, the days just a long, the muscles just a sore but I am beginning to enjoy the hike. When I see a tall mountain in front of me, I just start climbing while thinking about other things. In the past I was focusing only on the next step. I am also trying to teach myself how to go up hills more efficiently. Jeremiah said to pace myself, what does that mean? I was following two sisters, Katie and Laurie from Maine hiking ahead of me. They were moving very slowly, but still pulling away from me. My style is to walk quickly and then have to stop huff and puff and look at the scenery for a min. My many stops meant my overall speed was super slow. Now I am teaching myself how to count steps and count a cadence and walk for a long distance up the hills without stopping. As I get fatigued over the course of the day I find myself reverting back to old standard run and stop. Yesterday, as I walked up to the top of Klingman’s Dome, the tallest mountain on the AT, at 6643 feet, I was able to walk without stopping for the first 2 of the 3 miles and then lost my technique. Will have to continue to develop the technique to make it my natural stride.

I left Franklin NC on the 16th and walked 11 miles to the Wayah Shelter. Was a beautiful day for a hike in the woods. 17th walked 10.6 miles to the Wesser Bald Shelter. On the 18th, 5.8 Miles to the Nantahala Outdoor Center, NOC. I have been there several times in the past with the B'ham, Canoe Club. It’s primary function is to serve rafters and boaters on the Nantahala River. I took the rest of the day off. Ate 3 meals at the NOC restaurant, showered, and washed clothes. They have a Hostel there, 18$ for a bunk and use of the facilities. Off early the next morning. Extra tough climb out of the Nantahala Gorge. Nantahala means noonday sun. The gorge is so steep that the sun rises late and set early. Climbed from 1700 to 4300 in five miles. Steepest climb so far was a week ago when I climbed 650 feet in 1/10 (500 ft) of a mile, almost straight up at Albert MT. NC.

Two more days hiking to Fontana Dam Village. Very tough couple of days. They apparently forgot all they knew about making switch backs, all the trails go straight up. Many very steep mountains and ended up back down at 1700 feet at the Dam. High point of 5062 feet just to get back to where we started elevation wise.
Ran into 2 “Trail Angels.” First was a man from Texas that comes and pitches a two large tents at Burningtown Gap. One in a MSR 8 meter dome tent. He had hot coffee, hot chocolate, and on occasion hotdogs. He had a bunch of sling folding chairs to sit on. Nice break for a half hour or so. The second was a 69 year old lady at one of the Gaps who said she had section hiked the AT from GA to Bear Mt. NY. Had hoped to get to Katahdin by age 70, but said she probably wouldn’t make it. She was passing out spring water and taking our garbage.
I am still awaiting my “trail legs” Supposed to take 6 weeks, means I need to keep at this for 2 more weeks. A number of people we started with have dropped out. Many that started out to do a thru hike are now only going to go part of the way because of other commitments. It is a long distance. Many now know that they will not be able to finish before school starts in the fall. Many of the 20 year olds that were doing 20 miles a day are having foot and blister problems.

The past 3 days it has been 40s with strong winds and rain or clouds. I have been able to stay in the shelters after the first night of rain and have stayed fairly dry but am worried about being cold and wet and then not having a dry sleeping bag. My sleeping bag is down which is worthless in keeping warm if the bag is wet. Di and I went to a outfitter today and bought an inexpensive synthetic bag. Synthetic bags will work even if wet. Your bag is your lifeline in these really adverse circumstances. When I am walking along, wet on the outside from rain and inside from sweat I know that I am OK as long as I walk. I generate my own heat. But at night I depend on my sleeping bag. If it works, I am OK, but if it is wet it won’t keep me warm and I am then in danger of hypothermia. By switching to synthetic I should be OK even if my gear gets wet.

We are continually warned about bears, and faithfully are hanging our food and other stuff that smells on cables hung near the shelters. Most of the duels for food go on with the mice that infest the shelters. Some are so thick that they run over the sleeping hikers, chew holes in our packs, clothing looking for tasty morsels.
I met Cecil Essex, a man and his son in the shelter a couple of days ago. They do an annual spring break hike in the Smokies, They gave me and another thru hiker a ride into town to the motel.

I continue to use my SPOT locator daily so Di knows where I am and that I am OK. Most of the time I can get coverage for my cell phone, but not the last 3 days.
Thanks for all your interest and concern for me.

Please continue to pray for safety and strength as this hike continues.

“Grandpa Hugh”